The Ultimate Guide to How to Choose a Men's Shirt

HOW TO CHOOSE A SHIRT?

Let it be said, the men shirts are the essential piece to have in your wardrobe. True base of the male wardrobe for some or simply symbol of elegance, we all agree that the shirt is an integral part of the male style. Formal or even casual, they exist in different fabrics, in all styles and especially at all prices. As with the other basics of the wardrobe, it is here to have a close eye on the quality of the fabric, the assembly, the cut or even the finishes, because investing in good men shirts is choosing favor quality over quantity. Through this article, we will try to best answer all your questions about this essential piece of our wardrobe:

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Summary

1. The history of the shirt

2. The different shirt fabrics

3. The different shirt collars

4. How to recognize a quality shirt?

5. How to choose a shirt to its size?

6. The different shirt cuts

7. Where to find men shirts?

The Little Story Of The Shirt

Even if the history of the shirt dates back to antiquity, it was not until the middle ages that it began to truly emerge. Far from being worn as elegant clothing, we find the “camisia” as an undergarment or even a night suit. At the time, the ancestor of the shirt was made from cotton or linen and was white (because the garment was often boiled for hygienic reasons). The length expressing social rank, it is said that the longer it was, the more wealthy the man who wore it. It is only from the renaissance that we wear the shirt as a garment in its own right, under a costume for example. Besides, in order to space out the washes, a removable collar was added. In the 18th century, this piece is thinner and is made from more noble materials such as silk. Even then, the shirt was still a means of social distinction. Thus, the wealthiest people, like the intellectual trades, had the famous white-collar so recognizable. In the middle of the 19th century, thanks to the firm brown, Davis & co of aldermanbury, we saw the arrival of the first mass-produced men shirts. It is also during this same period that we will see other colors, such as colors in pastel shades worn by the garibaldis to manifest political ideas. Then with the democratization of the costume in the most popular classes, we will see an evolution of the shirt: stripes, checks, or new colors. In the 1930s the first fixed collars appeared. Subsequently, the shirt will continue to evolve to become this essential of the male wardrobe that we know today.

2. The different shirt fabrics

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When looking for a shirt, it is important to first determine the material. Indeed, in addition to the color, the cut, or even the finishes, the choice of the material remains essential. We will favor 100% cotton, especially for its resistant fibers and its comfort. Thus, according to the different weavings, the material can have a variable appearance and feel. There are different weaving weaves (twill weave, canvas weave, or satin weave). If this part is not entirely clear to you, we invite you to consult one of our previous articles dealing specifically with the choice of fabric.

A. Poplin

The poplin is certainly the most used weaving. Not only made of cotton, it is not uncommon to find wool or silk poplin. Woven with a finer warp thread than the weft thread, the poplin is pleasant to the touch. The tight weaving gives it a good quality. Most of the time, we find poplin for formal shirts.

B. Oxford

Coming directly from the city of Oxford (in England), this fabric, unlike poplin, has a less precise weaving, which very often earns it the nickname "Grain fabric". Most often, the weft thread is colored while the warp thread is white. The checkered effect of weaving is therefore relatively visible. This fabric, associated with an American collar, gives a casual shirt, both soft and solid.

D. The twill

The twill is none other than the English name for the twill weave. Visually, we recognize it thanks to the diagonals formed by the weaving. The twill is resistant, crease-resistant and easy to iron. A twill shirt is ideal for winter and can be worn both in formal and casual wear. There are also shirts in workwear twill or military inspiration.

F. Denim

The denim is not present only because our jeans are also found on our shirts. The solidity of this cotton fabric with a twill weave is due to a very tight weaving. Generally indigo blue, a denim shirt will fade and skate as you wear them. This type of piece fits perfectly in a casual look, workwear, or even casual chic. A men shirt that you can wear in all seasons!

G. The chambray

The chambray is a fabric of American origin, in plain weave, woven with an indigo warp and a white or ecru weft. The alliance between these two colors is the same as denim, we get a "Denim shirt" effect. The chambray shirt is rather light and textured. It is a piece that can also be worn all year round: only on sunny days, superimposed as soon as the temperatures drop.

H. The flannel

The flannel cotton or wool is obtained through the same process. We will scrape the fabric between two rollers with pins rotating in opposite directions. Thus, the fabric will fray on the surface, which will give a soft feel. The flannel shirt is ideal for the weekend from fall to winter.

3. THE DIFFERENT SHIRT COLLARS

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A. The French collar

Otherwise called the classic collar, its opening is relatively light and the width of its points is around 6-7cm. It is the most common type of collar since we will find it as much on a formal shirt as casual. A shirt with a french collar will go very well with or without a tie. Even if it can be worn by the vast majority of us, it will be more suited to rather round faces with small necks.

B. The Italian collar (cutaway)

It is the second most common pass. Unlike the french collar, its opening is much wider. Less strict than french, it is worn with a fairly wide tie, even without for a more relaxed style. As for the previous one, the Italian collar will go to all body types, except for men who have a strong neck.

C. The tab collar

We stay in Europe with the English collar which is easily recognizable thanks to its small opening and its tab that connects the two sides of the collar. It is a system that allows you to highlight the tie knot, so it is unthinkable to wear an English collar shirt without this accessory. Being a collar that we will describe as elegant, unlike the Italian collar, we will favor a relatively thin tie. Finally, the English collar has the particularity of lengthening the face (to be avoided for people with a wide neck).

D. The American collar (polo collar)

Now cross the Atlantic to discover the American pass. It is also called a polo collar because it was present on the shirts of polo players to prevent the collar from straightening up on the players' faces. As you will have understood, the peculiarity of this type of collar is that its points are maintained by buttons. Without a tie and under a jacket, it is both chic and casual, but it often stays on casual shirts.

E. The broken neck

Rather rare, the broken collar is reserved for large events such as ceremonies and cocktails. It is worn with a bow tie or a lavallière and essentially with a tuxedo. As with the Italian collar, it is better suited for people with a rather thin neck and an elongated face.

F. The inverted collar

Unlike a classic collar, the inverted collar is tucked inside the neck, that is to say, that the collar flaps are not outside and are not visible. Halfway between an officer collar and a mao collar, this is an original collar with a casual style. Therefore, we will forget the tie and the bow tie.

G. The officer collar

As its name suggests, this collar has its origin in the uniforms or jacket of army officers. It is often confused with the mao collar, while it is a simple collar foot without flap. It is a strip of fabric connected by a single button and without a cuff. The stand-up collar is often associated with a relaxed style because it does not allow the wearing of the tie or the bow tie.

4. HOW TO RECOGNIZE A QUALITY SHIRT?

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When looking for one or more shirts to complete your wardrobe, you have to pay attention to certain points. We start by taking a look at the seams and armholes. We then sift through the finishes such as the collar, the cuffs, the reinforcement swallows or the buttons. Don't panic, we will take each point here and try to give you as much advice as possible. We must not forget that in addition to the quality of the shirt, we must systematically pay attention to the cut thereof and the general fall once worn. A shirt must be adapted to our morphology because a men shirts that are too big or on the contrary too small can very quickly give an unsightly effect and not enhance us.

The quality of the fabric: the titration and the plied

Except in exceptional cases, as with all clothing, the quality is generally reflected in that of the fabric used. Let it be said, a shirt is a piece essentially made of cotton, threads, and buttons, nothing more. You will have to pay attention to the quality of the material: cotton, silk, wool (in the case of a flannel) or even linen. For this, do not hesitate to touch the material and check the thickness of the fabric used.

It should not be forgotten that the quality of the fabric will depend on the quality of the yarn. We then speak of titration. To put it simply, on a shirt, the titration indicates the length of wire for a fixed weight. In the case of a shirt, this is the number of spools for a pound (English). Generally, it is said that the higher the titration, the finer the wire. It is not necessarily useful to choose a titration above 140, even 170, because the fabric will be too thin. In other words, a high titration will give an extremely crumpled fabric, fragile and not very durable over time. In the opposite case, a low titration is not necessarily a sign of poor quality. Generally, these coarser threads are found in more casual shirts (like flannel for example). In general, among the offer, there are titrations ranging from 80 to 120.

In the case of a cotton shirt, unlike the different weavings mentioned above (poplin, oxford, twill, etc.), we will pay attention to the cotton thread used. We often speak of plied or double plied ( two-fold cotton ). In the case of double twists, we use two identical fine threads (coming from long cotton fibers) which we will twist together to give only one thread. Generally, these fabrics are softer to the touch and above all more resistant (they will also age very well). The texture is more interesting, worked and the colors are more visually beautiful. The fabric will, however, be thicker and therefore, will be more difficult to maintain (in particular ironing).

A. The seams

In the vast majority of cases, the quality of a shirt goes through that of its seams. Therefore, they must be precise and regular on the whole garment. To see it, nothing too complicated since you can directly take a look at the seams once the piece is in your hands (a little more difficult on the internet, as we will realize when receiving the shirt). On a shirt, we like that they are relatively discreet and that the stitching points are close together. Even if you do not systematically take out your meter, especially when you are in a shop, you should know that from 6 stitches/cm, you have quality seams that will hold over time. Besides, if you count slightly more it can only be better. To check their strength, just like denim, do not hesitate to pull on the different pieces of fabric.

B. The armholes

The armholes are also an important point not to be overlooked when looking for men shirts. In ready-to-wear, the seam of the sleeve (the one along the arm) is an extension of that which combines the back and front of the shirt. There are, however, offset seams on certain high-end or tailor-made models, this is not a defect, far from it, but rather interesting technical detail. Even if it would be very difficult to notice it without knowing it beforehand, the fact of shifting the seams will bring a certain comfort and freedom of movement, thus avoiding possible folds. Of course, this principle is not applied to ready-to-wear shirts.

C. The collar

Now let's go to the pass, an element which also has all its importance. More than a detail, a well-sewn collar with regularity will bring elegance to the room. According to our preferences and our morphology, it is important to choose it certainly, but also to check its quality. A poor quality collar will significantly affect the appearance of your shirt. We start by analyzing its rigidity because if it is soft, it will not have a nice fall and move when you turn your head. In the case of a formal shirt, it is, therefore, necessary to be vigilant as to the rigidity of the collar. Know that it is quite possible to add reinforcing ribs which will help to maintain the points of the collar. In the case of a casual shirt, the fact that the collar is not extremely rigid is not necessarily a point to note.

As far as mounting is concerned, there are very often two schools: fused necks and floating necks. A heat-sealed collar is made up of three layers cut from the same model. The middle layer, the interlining, is fusible and therefore finds its place between the two parts. The entire neck is placed in a heating press which will truly assemble these three parts to become a single piece that will be sewn afterward. We find this type of inexpensive fitting on the vast majority of ready-to-wear shirts. On certain shirts, as you wear them and wash them, the thermo-bonded collar can come off or even lose its initial shape. This can come from the quality of the glue used. Of course, today, there are very good fused collars which do not necessarily meet this type of problem, which are very easy to maintain and which at the same time will age very well over time. In the case of a collar, not heat- sealed, we will sew the interlining directly to the other two parts. This avoids the possible blisters due to the glue and the impression of a cardboard collar. This type of collar is generally found on high-end shirts.

D. The wrists

Another detail of a shirt, the cuffs. You should know that there are several and that we can sometimes customize them. Like the collar, the cuffs of the shirt must be rigid and have fine and regular seams. It will be ensured that the buttons are correctly positioned and that no wire protrudes. Among the different shirt cuffs, there is the square cuff, the two-button cuff, the Neapolitan cuff, the simple broken, the simple rounded, then the musketeer.

E. Details on a shirt

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In addition to the previous points discussed together, I suggest you quickly review some additional details that confirm the quality of a men's shirts: the buttons, the presence or absence of a pocket, or the reinforcement swallow.

Let's start by talking about the buttons. Know that the most prestigious brands (and others less) use real mother-of-pearl. Difficult to recognize because of many copies, you will learn to recognize the mother-of-pearl over time with your own experience. The thicker the mother-of-pearl used, the more it is of good quality and resistance. Beyond the mother-of-pearl, there are buttons made of plastic, wood, resin, or even pearly pressure (on western-style denim shirts). The buttons bring that little extra touch to the finishes of the shirt. In addition to their quality, one must pay attention to the way they are sewn. The most common is cross-stitching, but we can also cite the parallel (less solid than the first) and finally the zampa di gallina, an Italian technique (in the form of an arrow).

The reinforcement swallows are discrete, but often useful because this extra yoke will come to protect joint sides to avoid tearing the bottom of the shirt. A risk more often present when wearing a shirt outside the pants, as below:

Very often, there is more of a patch pocket on casual shirts than on formal shirts. Note that there are several types of pockets: the cut-out pocket, the classic square pocket, the diamond pocket, the flap pocket (as on a denim shirt), the round-section pocket (as on the shirt above). Below that Tommy wears).

5. HOW TO CHOOSE A SHIRT TO ITS SIZE?

Ere are some tips to avoid more make no mistake about the size of your shirt:

• Shoulders: the seams must reach the level of the shoulder bone
• Collar size: you must be able to pass two fingers or even three fingers on the side between the neck and the collar
• Sleeve length: unbutton the cuffs and drop them by putting your arm next to your body. Leave about 2 cm above the base of the thumb
• Chest size: there should be no tension at the third button (from the top). Don't feel right when you raise your arms
• Formal shirt length: allow a certain length for a men shirts worn in the pants (the shirt must cover the fly)
• Casual shirt length: provide a shorter length to be able to wear it outside the pants (the shirt must be halfway up the fly)

6. THE DIFFERENT SHIRT CUTS

Today, globally, there are two short cuts: fitted cuts and straight cuts. Choosing a shirt is also making choices based on its morphology. Here are some tips for choosing the cut of your shirt:

A. Slim fit

The slim-fit or adjusted cut has the distinction of being tighter at the bust and being slightly drawn at the sides. Like the slim pants, this cut will draw the shapes of the body without being too tight. It is said that the fitted cut is ideal for people with a “v” shape, that is to say, suitable for men who have broad shoulders and a thin waist. It is also a cut recommended for those who have an “I” morphology (thin with narrow shoulders and no belly). On the other hand, it will be necessary to pay attention to the chosen size, one should not feel too tight and the buttons should not be under pressure. A clue: if folds form at the buttons, the cut or size is not suitable.

B. Straight (or regular) cut

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The straight or regular cut is the most classic cut of men's shirt cuts (since the 80s and 90s). There is a return of loose and comfortable cuts. As the name suggests, it is straight. She will not draw the lines of the body or those of the bust. Less elegant than the slim cut for some, it is the cut that is mainly found in our casual shirts. The regular cut is easy to wear, but again, you'll have to be careful with the size you choose. Even if overall, it adapts to most body types, it will correspond more to people who have a few shapes and large shoulder

7. Where to find shirts?

To help you in your quest for the perfect shirt, we invite you to discover an exhaustive list of brands classified according to their price range (and in ascending order in each range)! Today, we mainly find brands that offer mid-range shirts. Their number being relatively high, this is a non-exhaustive list, here is our selection:

A. Entry-level shirt brands

Bexley

Even if we know the french brand for its affordable pairs of shoes, you should know that Bexley also offers a full range of ready-to-wear. Among the many pieces, there are obviously shirts. Displayed at a price of, Bexley offers a wide variety of cuts, fabrics, collars, but also colors. And as for its shoes, the brand has opted for a sliding scale principle: the men shirts are at and interesting if you want to renew your annual stock of shirts.

Hast

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Hast is a brand of men's clothing created in 2012. Through its collection, hast offers pretty cuts and above all beautiful materials. The aim of the brand is to offer the best possible quality / price ratio. The result is durable pieces of around sixty dollars on average. Note that for the price of € 94, we have access to the brand's premium line, which is also worth a detour!

First-round

Première Manche is a brand of shirts that we discovered in 2016. Very quickly, the brand positioned itself on the “affordable luxury” market. The shirts are priced at(all materials combined), which represents a very good quality/price ratio. Note however that première Manche offers a unique cut (adjusted) and the main collar type (Italian). There are beautiful formal shirts from this specialist. In recent times, the brand has also been working with very beautiful Japanese materials!

House standards

The main standards brand offers a complete male wardrobe. The starting price of a shirt is around there are mainly models of casual shirts like oxford shirts, chambray, denim or flannel. We love the materials and modern cuts of their models. Good basics offered at affordable prices!

Carhartt WIP

As with other pieces of the wardrobe, Carhartt WIP remains a recommendable brand. The pieces are simple, robust and the collections still as interesting. Each new season, I usually fall for one or two pieces including men shirts. Pieces that are resolutely casual and easy to wear all year round. The quality is really there (even if we note a slight decrease in recent years). At Carhartt WIP, there are often shirts with an America collar made of cotton (poplin, oxford, denim, chambray or even flannel). The starting price is around.

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Bruce field

Created in 1978, the bruce field is a french brand that offers a complete wardrobe that can be described as "Classic". Among its ready-to-wear range, there is of course a collection of formal and elegant shirts. Offered at each, the men shirts are made in Europe. The brand wants to be timeless while surfing on the cuts and current trends, all at the right price.

Seidensticker

The German brand Seidensticker is rather old since its history dates back to 1919. Seidensticker has developed with its privileged Italian supplier a process allowing the fabric of its shirts to crease when it dries. You just have to put the shirt on the hanger at the end of the wash and let it go (clever isn't it?). Even if the brand is still little known in France, it is the leading manufacturer of shirts in Europe. The price of the shirts is on average around. There is a range of formal shirts as well as casual shirts.

B. Mid-range shirt brands

Field of maneuvers

We haven't yet touched on the subject of workwear or military inspiration, but it's done with the Toulouse brand champ de maneuvers. Indeed, the label offers beautiful shirts in chambray, denim or even over-shirts in twill from army deadstock. With prices very often below the fateful bar of 100 € , we find pieces of character really interesting both in terms of cuts and textures! Ideal for those looking for a future-proof shirt!

Asket

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Asket, this is a brand that quickly won us over with its beautiful basics. Among its still limited offer, there are some very nice casual shirts with an American collar: oxford, linen or even denim. The prices are intended to be fair and in line with the quality of the products and materials. The oxford shirt is sold for the linen shirt for € 100 and the denim shirt for. Of course, just like the basket merino wool sweater, there are three lengths in addition to the traditional size system: short, regular or even longer. A very interesting brand for the choice of casual shirts.

Office artist

Office artist is a french brand specializing in shirts since 2014. The pieces are cut from prestigious fabrics from Italian and English houses. Even if the brand started by developing exclusively formal models, there is now a choice of casual shirts. Price level, oxford shirts are sold at 65 € against 89 € for more worked models.

Private workshop

Created in 2007, atelier privé is a french brand specializing in accessories, knitwear, and shirts. There are two collections: the essentials and that of each season. As its name suggests, the essentials include models of shirts available all year round (white, blue, denim, plaid shirts, etc.). The second collection is rather focused on trends and novelties. Besides, the fancy patterns are very original. Count on average a hundred euros to acquire an atelier privé shirt.

October

Created recently in 2016, October offers a wide range of pieces for the male wardrobe. Rather casual oriented, even casual chic, the brand offers quality men shirts made from beautiful materials. Corduroy, flannel, denim, or even chambray, the shirts are well cut and well made. Note that all their shirts are made in Portugal. On average, count for a shirt from October.

Black flag

Drapeau Noir is a brand that was born in 2020 by Nicolas Barbier. Starting with a small collection of shirts, Drapeau noir now offers a complete men's wardrobe. It offers very beautiful materials such as denim, flannel or chambray. The materials come mainly from Japan and the parts are assembled in Portugal. By now opting for a direct-to-consumer model, Drapeau noir has considerably lowered the price of its products.

Balibaris

Among the basics at Balibar, there are obviously casual and formal shirts. If it is regrettable that the quality/price ratio is no longer as interesting (a brand that opens stores must necessarily review its margins), Balibar remains a brand that we appreciate for its cuts and its timeless style. It takes between for casual men shirts and less than a hundred euros for a formal shirt.

Harmony

A few months ago we learned that the harmony brand was changing its model. Even though prices were rather excessive before, they are now much more affordable. Offered between we will find casual shirts like oxford, denim or even poplin. All the shirts are made in Portugal. The brand also offers very elegant over-shirts! ;)

Figaret Paris

Figaret Paris (formerly Alain figure) was created in 1968. From the outset, figaret Paris positioned itself in the high-end shirt sector, thus offering a wide choice of pieces, all available in different cuts. There is a wide palette of colors as well as different styles of collars. The shirts have beautiful finishes and very rigid collars. However, count between € 95 and € 195 depending on the material and finishes. We find both casual and formal shirts.

Suitsupply

In 2019, we learned that the brand from Amsterdam, suit supply , opened its first store in France, in Paris. On occasion, joe had reported on suit supply a few days after the store officially opened. In addition to their range of costumes that we particularly appreciate for their materials, their cuts, their sizes or even their affordable prices, suit supply also offers a wide choice of shirts for men. From € 69 to the dutch brand classifies its offer among four categories of shirts: classic, casual, luxurious and tuxedo. There is a wide choice of cuts, materials, and sizes, but above all quality, shirts offered at the right price.

Hartford

Hartford is a french brand created in 1979 by Yves charleston. At Hartford, we mainly find casual shirts inspired by American heritage. Denim, flannel or over-shirts. Some shirts cut close to the body while others are regular. On the price side, they range from 105 € to 160 €.

Flu

Flu is a ready-to-wear brand that developed in September 2016, specializing in shirts made in France. At its inception, the French brand had its men shirts produced in limited stock (fifty pieces per model). The brand still offers limited editions for some of its shirts (50 pieces). Currently, there are 9 different casual shirts offered each of them.

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Norse projects

Norse Projects has been offering for a few years now a model of a men shirts that has become a classic, the Anton. Available in flannel, oxford, and even denim, the cut is regular but quite long. Quite what you would expect from a Scandinavian men shirts cut. To have several including two in oxford, I confirm that the quality is present.

Schnayderman's

Schnayderman's is a brand that I discovered at Beaubien in Paris. The brand offers beautiful men casual shirts in a regular cut in beautiful materials for a fair price. The collections are often sober and timeless. The average price is around. Unfortunately, I cannot say more, because I have not yet tested the brand, but if this is the case for one of you I would be delighted to have feedback!